Mount Isa

City Profile : Mount Isa

Mount Isa
We rolled into Mount Isa quite early in the morning, so there wasn’t much open other than a coffee shop offering free Wi-Fi.  After a coffee, we strolled around town to get our bearings before heading to the information centre to get the lowdown on the town.


Fuel was fairly cheap in Mount Isa, with diesel sitting at around $1.57 when we were there.  As mentioned earlier, there are places around town that offer free Wi-Fi, including the library, which is a great place to hang out to escape the heat of the day.  Coles and Woolworths offer relatively cheap groceries, a dump point with access to drinking water is located by Buchanan Park and both Optus and Telstra reception are available.


After checking out a few points of interest, we visited several op shops and went to the post office to collect a package that our friend in Melbourne sent us for our birthdays.  Thanks for the gifts, Chris!  Juz did some work in the library while Dave replaced the front shocker rubbers on the Troopy, and we were on our way to camp by around 4pm.



As the usual story goes, someone found lead ore while in the Mount Isa region in 1923.  A lease was pegged on the area as soon as possible, which was also named after Mount Ida – a WA gold field.  As the news spread, there were 118 new leases by the end of 1923.


With the establishment of Mount Isa Mines in 1924, a town was required to service the workers of the mine.  It started off as a camp and slowly more accommodation and a pub was installed.  Then a hospital, courthouse and school were built before the State Government moved in to turn it into a real town.


In 1943, the mine started to mine for copper to cater for WW2, and in 1946, both lead and copper were mined.  By 1955, Mount Isa Mines was the largest mining company in Australia, which meant that Mount Isa was growing and so Lake Moondarra was constructed in 1958. The population boom was so great, that in 1968, Mount Isa town was declared a city.


Mount Isa


Fast Facts

  • Mount Isa’s population is around 23,000 people.
  • The main industry is mining, which is made obvious by the enormous mine in the centre of town. It is in the top two of the largest copper mining and smelting operations in Australia.  Mining of silver-lead-zinc is also done at the mine.
  • According to the locals, there are two sides of the city, the Mineside and the Townside.


Points of Interest

City Lookout

This spot provided great 360° views of the city, including the mine and the information centre.  A signpost gave the distance and direction of various capital cities, and there are picnic tables nearby for those who are looking for a picturesque location for lunch.


Mount Isa  


Riversleigh Fossil Centre

Located at the Outback In Isa Information Centre, the Riversleigh Fossil Centre displays various mammalian bones collected from the Riversleigh Fossil Fields, as well as dioramas of what life and the environment would have been like tens of thousands of years ago.  The displays include diprotodonts, the largest marsupial ever to have lived in Australia, as well as the skull of a fangaroo!  The entry fee is $12 for adults, or if you’re a member of YHA Australia, you get backpacker rates.


Mount Isa  



Located about 120km south east from Mount Isa, Cloncurry is a small town with a big history.  It was the home of John Flynn, the guy who established the Royal Flying Doctors Service and earned the honour of having his face put on the Aussie $20 note.  There is a museum in town that commemorates his work.


Mary Kathleen Memorial Park includes the Information Centre and a shaded picnic area with free BBQs, as well as a great outdoor display.  Stroll through the various historical machinery that was used for farming and mining, and learn about Australia’s first rail ambulance, a unique 1941 Ford V8 converted to a rail ambulance that operated until 1971.  There is also a rock collection next to the Information Centre to peruse.  Mary Kathleen was a nearby mine, named after someone’s wife of course.




Information & Accommodation

Outback In Isa Information Centre is a great place to start to get information about the surrounding area.  Visit the Riversleigh Fossil Centre and Historical Museum, or book a tour through the Hard Times Mine.  There’s a café, gift shop and art gallery as well.


Mount Isa


Fountain Springs Rest Area – 60km E from Mt Isa. This rest area is about halfway between Cloncurry and Mount Isa and includes flushing toilets, fire pits and bins.  If you’re lucky, you can get some Telstra reception but make sure you get there early as the rest area can get a little crowded.


WW2 Airfield Rest Area – about 50kms W from Mt Isa, this spacious rest area offers overnight stays with toilets, bins, picnic benches and plenty of space.


Mount Isa

Binns Track

4WDing : Binns Track

Binns Track


After over 800km of tarmac along the Stuart Highway, we turned onto the Plenty Highway to smash out a leg of Binns Track.


It’s a relatively new 4WD track that was named after Bill Binns, a ranger who worked with NT Parks and Wildlife for 32 years.  His dream was to get tourists off the beaten track to explore the lesser known beauties of Central Australia.  The track is 2,191km long and starts at Mount Dare on the SA/NT border.  It then goes through Alice Springs, winds north passed Devils Marbles and finishes at Timber Creek, just beyond Gregory National Park.


Our portion of the track is about 300km and runs through the East Macdonnell Ranges, an area rich with history, before finally rolling into Alice Springs.



This was our first stop before hitting the dirt.  There is a little food store where you can peruse a small selection of groceries or take away hot food.  The lady behind the counter was super friendly and tipped us off about the road closure along Cattlewater Pass, which ended up saving us both time and petrol.


Next door is a gem shop and Juz took the opportunity to show the guy behind the counter a rock she found in the Kimberley.  She was happy to learn that it’s a smoky quartz, just as she suspected, and also learnt what to look for when we go fossicking.


Binns Track


We put some fuel in the tank at $2.30 a litre before moving on.  Once we hit the dirt track, about 7km down is a turn off for a fossicking area.  We stopped in, picked at the gravel for a while and realised we had no idea what we were doing so we continued to Artlunga Historical Reserve.


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Arltunga Historical Reserve

The road was a combination of bumps and corrugations, and smooth, winding roads with peaks and valleys and it took an hour or so to get to Artlunga.  It is said that Artlunga was central Australia’s first town, born from a gold rush that started in 1887.  People came from all over the country, often on foot, to get a piece of the action, and the settlement once supported around 300 people.


We checked out the opening of an old mine at Joker Gorge and even climbed down into some old mines that were along the Historical Mine Walks.  The Old Police Station was cool to check out, and it was interesting to learn that it was rebuilt in the 1980s because it was torn down by people who believed gold was hidden in the walls.


Binns Track


On our way out, we sussed out the historical exhibit in the Visitor Centre, which had interactive displays and a rusty ute out back, before continuing along the track to Ruby Gap.  It was slow going but the scenery was gorgeous and we even saw some brumbies!


Binns Track


Ruby Gap Nature Park

There is absolutely no way you will get to Ruby Gap Nature Park without a high clearance 4WD.  The road is chronic and rain can make it virtually impassable.


Ruby Gap got its name when a guy was exploring the region in 1886 and found  what he thought was a ruby in the dry bed of the Hale River.  People rushed to the area to find some rubies and after they flooded the market, their quality was questioned.  In 1888, they were found to be garnets, not rubies, so all the miners picked up their gear and moved over to Arltunga to look for gold.


Binns Track


Camping in Ruby Gap is $3.30 per person per night and you can camp anywhere along the river.  On our first night, we camped along the sandy creek bed and we were absolutely shocked at how cold it was.  We built a fire, pulled out the blanket, and had a cooked dinner with lots of warming spices.  We stayed up a little longer than usual because there were no mozzies and eventually went to sleep huddled together for warmth.



The morning chill was debilitating and the sand sucked any warmth out of our feet.  We revived the fire and worked on warming up our numb toes while we waited for the sun to rise over the escarpment.  When it was finally warm enough to change out of our pyjamas, we went further up the river bed to explore Glen Annie Gorge.


Binns Track


The walk through the gorge was slow going because of the sandy river bed, and getting distracted by the shiny red stuff between the rocks didn’t help.  It took us about three hours to walk 2km to Glen Annie Gorge because we spent so much time trying to find a garnet bigger than a grain of sand.  The waters at Glen Annie were bitingly cold so we had a quick refresh before heading back along the walking path.


Binns Track


We spent another night at Ruby Gap, but this time on dirt instead of sand.  We built a great fire and tended it throughout the night as we told stories, listened to music and sipped on Boston Bay Riesling Mistelle.


N’Dhala Gorge Nature Park

After a few crossings over the Ross River, we got to N’Dhala Gorge Nature Park at around lunchtime.  This area is an important site for the Arrernte people, as it contains over 5,000 rock engravings, art sites and shelters.  The east 1.5km walk into the gorge exhibits the old petroglyphs that tell of the Caterpillar Dreaming story.


Camping is available at the park but there are minimal spaces, facilities and shade.


Binns Track


Trephina Gorge National Park

Located in the East MacDonnell Ranges about 85km east of Alice Springs, Trephina Gorge is not only a great spot for travellers but for the locals as well.  Camping is at $3.30 per person per night, and there are three campgrounds to choose from.


Binns Track


We stayed at the Trephina Bluff Campground, and once we rolled in, we were approached by Jess from A Girl and Her Troopy  We had a good chat about our Troopies and our travels as the sun set and cast an orange glow over the bluff.  The night turned out to be very chilly so we went to bed not long after dark.


We woke up at the crack of dawn to attempt the gorge walks.  To warm ourselves up, we did the Panoramic walk first, which started off with a steep incline up to the top of a hill that provided fantastic views of the gorge and the bluff.  The Trephina Gorge walk was a little milder and we stopped at the top of the gorge to have breakfast.


Binns Track


Corroboree Rock

We were originally going to skip Corroboree Rock but in the last minute, we pulled in to check it out.  As we approached, a huge dome of grey dolomite rock appeared over the trees, and while we were doing the short walk around the rock, we soon realised that it wasn’t a dome, but more like a giant coin half-buried in the ground.  Cool!


Corroboree Rock is an outcrop of dolomite from the Bitter Springs Formation, which began as the bottom of a salty late about 800 million years ago.  Dolomite is a soft, grainy rock, similar in texture to limestone, but it’s made mostly of magnesium carbonate instead of calcium carbonate.


Binns Track


Emily & Jessie Gaps Nature Park

Emily and Jessie Gaps are found along the Heavitree Range, and they are a short 10km drive from Alice Springs along the Ross Highway.  They exhibit more rock art that tells the Caterpillar Dreamtime story, and if you’re lucky, you can spot some wild budgies chirping in the trees.


Binns Track


Tennant Creek

Town Profile : Tennant Creek

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We had just spent about three weeks in the bush.  A poorly planned shopping trip in Katherine meant we were running low on food, and the Troopy needed some desperate work on its brakes.  We rolled into town early and got to work.  Dave dropped Juz off at the library so she could keep the interwebs side of the operation up to date while he went into town to get the parts he needed to tend to Troopy.


Fast Facts

  • Tennant Creek is the fifth largest town in the NT, with a population of just over 3000 people.
  • It’s about 1000km south of Darwin and 500km north of Alice Springs.
  • The creek nearby was named after John Tennant, the financer for John McDouall Stuart’s unsuccessful expedition to cross the continent in 1860.
  • An Overland Telegraph Station was erected near the creek in 1872
  • In the 1930s, Tennant Creek was the site of Australia’s last gold rush.


These days, Tennant Creek is a fairly mellow town.  There are a few pubs and service stations, a Red Rooster and Foodland, and there are heaps of murals.  You’ll see them everywhere – on bins, buildings, bus depots, motels!  If you go to the Visitor Centre, they’ll even give you a map that indicates where all the murals are.



Lunchtime rolled around fast and we were both STARVING!  We both had fantasies of sneaking off for a small pizza at one of the establishments on the main street, but Dave collected Juz from the library at about 1pm and we headed to Mary Ann Recreation Dam to use the free gas BBQs.  We cooked up some delicious steak sandwiches before having a cold shower in the toilet block by the dam.


Back in town, we stocked up on food and petrol.  Petrol at the BP just on the edge of town was priced at $1.79, and Dave used the 2c discount voucher in the Central Australia brochure.  The price of fresh vegetables at Foodland was surprisingly reasonable while the price of crackers was nearly double!


It was 4:30pm before we left Tennant Creek, and with the intention of getting to Devils Marbles for sunset, we had to fang it south down the Stuart Highway for 108km.  Dave put his foot to the floor and managed to coax the Troopy all the way up to a rattly 120kp/h!!  We made it to the Devils Marbles just in time to see the rocks to glow red.


Devils Marbles



The Pebbles – located about 17km north of town, it’s a cosy spot for a quick, overnight camp.  While you can’t climb on the pebbles out of cultural respect, the sunset casts an orange glow over the rocks that is just wonderful.



Billy Allen Lookout – this lookout provides 360° views of town and surrounds.  Definitely worth a look.


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Devils Marbles – about 108km south of Tennant Creek, the Devils Marbles are a MUST SEE destination. Camping is available right amongst the Marbles but don’t expect any privacy because it’s a popular spot.  Also, if you want to catch the sunset, make sure you get there by 5:30pm.


Devils Marbles



Visitor information is available at the Battery Hill Mining Centre.  It’sopen from 9am to 5.30pm daily and offers an underground mine tour, a museum and great views of town and the surrounding ranges.


Battery Hill, Peko Road, Tennant Creek
Free Call: 1800 500 879


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Pine Creek

Town Profile : Pine Creek

Pine Creek


Pine Creek was named by Sidney Herbert, a bloke who worked on the Overland Telegraph Line.  It was during the construction of this telegraph line that workers discovered gold, and thus the gold rush of 1871 began!  Pine Creek’s population exploded as Europeans and Chinese hurried over to find their fortune and during the brief lifespan of the gold rush, 764,000 ounces of gold were extracted.


These days, Pine Creek is a sleepy little town that provides basic services, and also has a few old buildings dotted around town, such as the Old Bakery.  While it has been closed for a long, long time, you can still have a look inside.  It opened in 1908 as a butchers shop and was re-erected in 1915 as a bakery and has an ant bed oven that dates back to 1922.  It operated as a bakery until World War II.


Mine Lookout & Miners Park

While we were in town, we also checked out the Mine Lookout and Miners Park, and learnt about the gold rush that birthed this town.


The Lookout is on the outskirts of town and offers panoramic views of the area, including Enterprise Pit.  This was an open cut mine that was worked from 1906 to 1985 but is now full of water to prevent acid build-up and is 135 meters deep.


The Miners Park is next to the railway station and exhibits old mining machinery.  There are heaps of displays that reveal the history of the goldfields.



Water Gardens

Running through the guts of town is a grassy strip with little ponds full of flowering lilies.  It’s right near the big windmill so you can’t miss it.  It was born from the closure of the railway line in 1976.


Lake Copperfield

A man-made dam that is perfect for a picnic.  Cool off in the water while you watch the rainbow bee-eaters flutter over the water.


Pine Creek


Umbrawarra Gorge

This place is well worth the 22km drive off the highway.  Once you park your car, it’s a short 15 minute walk to the swimming hole, with clear water and a sandy beach.  If you feel adventurous, continue on into the gorge to find a bizarre sight – the creek flowing upwards?


Umbrawarra Gorge


We thought this location was beautiful and it reminded us of the Kimberley.  We also saw a snake – possibly a golden tree snake – but it slithered away too quickly for a happy snap.



Red Dog Memorial in Dampier!

Hi-Vis Towns of the Pilbara

The Pilbara covers both coastline and inland plains and has many natural attractions.  If you’re on the coast, pristine beaches, snorkelling and beautiful sunsets are the main attraction, as well as the Staircase to the Moon, which happens at certain times of the month.  Further inland is Millstream Chichester National Park with its rolling spinifex hills and tree-lined gorges, and the jewel of the Pilbara – Karijini National Park.



The Pilbara is also known as the ‘engine room’ of Australia because of the mining operations – iron, salt, … – and it wasn’t until we drove through this region of Western Australia that we finally understood how this affects the state.  Everyone told us that WA is expensive, and this is because the people who work in the mines make a lot of money and the towns need to compete with that.  The general cost of living goes up and this makes WA very difficult to travel through on a budget.  It finally makes sense why a chicken parma costs $30 – and you have to be a miner to afford it!


Because of the mining activity in the Pilbara, you’ll find that pretty much everyone is wearing high-visibility workwear.  If you see someone who isn’t wearing hi-vis, then they are probably married or related to someone who does, or you’ve just spotted your reflection in a shop window.  We reckon they even sleep in their hi-vis gear, and if two hi-visers had a baby, it would come out wearing hi-vis…



We rolled into Paraburdoo on Mothers Day and the only carrier offering reception was Telstra.  We quickly called our mums from Dave’s mobile before having a look around town.


Paraburdoo gets its name from the aboriginal term ‘pirupardu’, which means meat feathers.  This mining town exists solely for the local mining operations.  Once we realised that there wasn’t much to see, we continued to the next town.


Tom Price

This mining town was named after Thomas Moore Price, a guy who worked for an American company called Kaiser Steel.  His job was to go out and appraise ore deposits and after dubbing the area minable in 1960, he lobbied the State and Federal Governments to allow mining to proceed so that the ore could be exported.  Mining companies moved in and started to dig while Thomas went back to America in 1962.  He died of a heart attack at his desk after he was informed of the valuable ore deposits found at Tom Price, and the town recognises his contribution to the foundation of the iron ore industry.



The town is quite pretty, with colourful bougainvilleas and bright green grass, and is nicknamed Top Town because it is 747 metres above sea level, making it the highest town in WA.  It’s fully stocked with a supermarket that is open on Sundays, a visitor centre, public toilets, and a bottle shop.  The pub looks like a good place to grab a drink and chill out in the beer garden.


To the south west of town is Mount Nameless, which towers 1120 metres over Tom Price.  While the miners couldn’t come up with a better name, the traditional aboriginal people of the area call it Jarndrunmunhna, ‘place of rock wallabies’, for thousands of years.  Nearby, an old haul truck is on display and completely dwarfs the Troopy.  Standing 5.7 metres high and weighing over 250 tonne when fully loaded, this is definitely a monster truck!  The engine alone weighs more than the Troopy!


Right next door is Karijini National Park, so we ducked in for two days of hiking and exploring before continuing north towards the coast.



Founded in the late 1960s due to the growth of the iron ore industry, Karratha is the fastest growing town of the Pilbara.  They have a busy town centre with all the major supermarkets, clothing stores, restaurants and new apartment buildings popping up like mushrooms after the rain.  Tank Hill Lookout offers great views of the city but in terms of attractions, there isn’t much.



About 100km south of Karratha is Millstream Chichester National Park, a 200,000 hectare landscape of rolling yellow hills, rocky escarpments and gorges.  On the way to Python Pool, we spotted some Sturt Desert Pea blossoms on the side of the road before climbing Mount Herbert for some stunning panoramic views of the park.



Python Pool is a permanent freshwater plunge pool located at the base of a cliff along the Chichester Range.  The water comes from an aquifer, or natural underground reserve that is fed by the Fortescue River and is believed to contain 1,700 million cubic metres of water.



About 20km west of Karratha is a small port town that was named after William Dampier.  The town was built by Hamersley Iron in 1965 and is one of the largest tonnage shipping ports in Australia.


Just off the coast is the Dampier Archipelago, a tourism attraction that is only accessible via an expensive cruise ship, no doubt.  Unfortunately, all you can really see of the archipelago from the mainland is the port and mining operations that have made themselves quite at home on some of the closer islands.  We opted to see the humble Red Dog Memorial instead.  The story is about a red kelpie that wandered the Pilbara.  He started his life in Paraburdoo in 1971 before being taken to Dampier by his first owner.  He adopted a second owner, John Stazzonelli – a truck driver that took him all over the northwest.  After John’s death, ‘Red’ travelled on his own until his death in 1979 due to deliberate poisoning by a dog hater.  Red’s story was made into a movie called Red Dog.


Red Dog Memorial in Dampier!


Port Hedland

Despite being one of the busiest ports of Australia, Port Hedland is actually a small town with a pretty quiet atmosphere.  As we drove into town, we were surrounded by hi-visers working on the roads, we past the dirty BHP Billition iron ore operations, saw Rio Tinto’s giant salt piles with little bulldozers on top and gazed at the larger than life freight ships docked in the port.  On our way out of town, we stopped by Pretty Pool, a nice little spot for a picnic, provided there are no crocs about.  There’s also a nudist beach nearby – just in case you’re interested… =D


Port Hedland started with a jetty in 1896 but the real growth started in the 1960s with the mining of iron ore in the Pilbara.  The population exploded from 1,200 people to around 18,000.




Pilbara Holiday Park, Karratha

Cooke Point Holiday Park, Port Hedland



A sculpture at the The Living Desert Sanctuary

City Profile : Broken Hill

The view from the Block 10 Lookout


Broken Hill is a remote mining city with a population of around 18,000 people, located in the far west outback of New South Wales.  Smack bang in the middle of the Australian Outback, you can experience the best of both worlds – the culture of a country town and the ruggedness of the surrounding landscape.


Since its establishment in 1883, Broken Hill has grown into a place rich with mining history, with tours and museums more than happy to share the tales.  There are also art galleries filled with pieces inspired by the area.



Fast Facts

  • Broken Hill is also known as The Silver City, the Oasis of the West, and the Capital of the Outback.
  • It is home to the world’s largest silver, lead and zinc mines, which are operated by the world’s largest mining company, Broken Hill Proprietary Company Limited (BHP).
  • Even though it is located in NSW, it abides by the South Australian time zone.
  • Broken Hill and the surrounding area have been used as the set for a handful of Australian ads, TV shows and films, including Mad Max and The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert.
  • Many of the streets are named after minerals and resources that helped support the town, such as Bromide, Silver, Cobalt, Silica.



An English guy called Charles Rasp discovered the Line of Lode in 1883 by accident.  He was a boundary rider and while patrolling the Mt Gipps fences, he came across some shiny rocks, thinking they contained tin.  The minerals turned out to be silver and lead, and by 1885, his new business, the Broken Hill Proprietary Company had started digging into the ground.


In 1937, BHP exited Broken Hill to make way for other mining companies – a total of 14 over the last 70 years.  Pie carts capitalised on the hunger of the miners heading home for the day, serving up the popular ‘sixpenny floater’ – a meat pie floating in green-pea soup with a yeast bun and a bottle of ginger beer.


Because it is located in the outback, the water supply of Broken Hill comes in ebbs and flows.  Once the mining business was established and the town began to grow, the state government installed water storage tanks to fulfil the people’s water needs.


By the 1890s, the mining business had blossomed and the population increased so much that they needed to find another water source.  Water was transported from the Darling River to stop the community from fighting over the little water they had, and eventually in 1891, a reservoir was built to catch rainwater.  Due to occasional drought, water still needed to be brought in from the Darling River from time to time.


In 1952, the demand for a permanent water supply resulted in a direct pipeline from the Menindee Lakes Water Storage System, located about 110km southeast of Broken Hill.



It gets pretty hot and dry in the summertime with temperatures reaching 38⁰C or more.  During the winter, the temperature drops to an average of 16⁰C.


Points of Interest

The Living Desert Sanctuary – our mates got married on the Sculpture Site, which was the perfect backdrop to recite their vows and say I DO.  The site is about 9km from Broken Hill and there are twelve sculptures completed by various artists from around the world.  They are located on a hilltop that overlooks the surrounding landscape.


A sculpture at the The Living Desert Sanctuary


Pro Hart Gallery – remember that TV ad with the old dude messing up the carpet?  “Oh Mr Hart!”  Well, the old dude was actually Kevin ‘Pro’ Hart, the great Australian artist that was born in 1928 in Broken Hill.  His collections of artwork would sell out so he started travelling the world, meeting a few famous people along the way, but he chose to come back to Broken Hill and set up his gallery.  After a long life of colour and creativity, Hart died in 2006.


The Miner’s Memorial – this beautiful place is located on the hill that overlooks Broken Hill, and it commemorates the lost lives of over 800 miners that died working along the Line of Lode. The Line of Lode is what the miners call the underground ore deposit.  The building was designed to mimic a mine and there is a viewing platform that extends over the edge of the hill and provides a great view of the city.


A miners' memorial on the corner of Chloride and Argent Street


Food & Drink

Charlotte’s at the Grand – Had a big night and looking for a decent breakfast?  Get your breakfast sandwich from here – you won’t regret it!

juganaut’s foodie thoughts Review – Charlotte’s at the Grand


Southern Cross Hotel – We hung out here for a few hours prior to the wedding for cold beers and a game of pool.  While you can tell that it’s an old pub – it was opened in 1888 – they’ve kept it looking fresh and clean.


The Broken Earth Restaurant – if you’re looking for a dining experience with a view, check out the Broken Earth Restaurant.  Accessible only via Federation Way, it is located at the highest point on the Line of Lode with fantastic views of the city.


Dave checking out the surrounding area...


Visitor Information Centre

The Broken Hill Visitor Information Centre is located on the corner of Blende and Bromide Street – 08 8080 3560


Getting Around

There is a public bus service that runs daily but the city is not huge so there’s no reason why you can’t use your feet.



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