We were supposed to go to Carnarvon National Park to camp and explore the gorge but when the time came to book our campsite, we found that the park was booked out… for whole month! We had to change our plans and chose to go to Blackdown Tableland instead. We’re glad that we did because it was quiet and we practically had the place to ourselves.
The Blackdown Tableland is south east of Blackwater and covers approximately 47,950 hectares. The elevation is nearly a kilometre above sea level, which makes the towering escarpment cooler and moister than the surrounding plains. It’s a steep climb to the top that rewards you with great views of the surrounding areas, and smoke from a bushfire in a nearby valley wafted through the trees.
We set up camp, cooked dinner, and once the sun had gone down we started to feel the cold. They weren’t kidding about that cooler climate. In the morning, we set off just after sunrise to explore the various walking and 4WD tracks.
Mook Mook Lookout is a short 1.2km one way track to a lookout. The path passes massive sandstone formations, one that we named Mummy Rock because it looked like the head of a bandaged mummy. There was a trickling creek, and a nearby waterfall to explore, and once we got to the lookout, we saw the source of the surrounding smoke.
The next track was Goon Goon Dina, a 2.5km loop that weaved through the trees and told the story of the traditional owners of the land. Stepping stones lead us over creeks, there was a rock art gallery, and charcoaled tree trunks hinted of a recent fire.
These two tracks were near the campground so once they were completed, we packed up and headed south to Guddo Gumoo, which is also known as Rainbow Waters. There is a 2km track that leads to the water fall, with a pool of clear water at the bottom, ferns growing from the rocks and colourful stripes on the overhead cliff. It was a really beautiful spot.
From here, we took the 4WD track back to the entrance of the park. It started off relatively smooth, with the occasional fallen tree that caused the need for an alternative route, but there are some steep rocky sections that definitely need 4WD and full attention.